Damson Night

Damsons are picked wild from the hedges on the Pewsey road for about three weeks in September, and we freeze most of what we get. This is the night we use them properly: in a vinegar with the first oysters, in a glaze on the Longhorn, in a sauce for the cheese course, and finally in the ice cream where everybody expects them to be.

Five courses, one long table, seven o’clock for half past. Fifty-five pounds. A wine flight is thirty extra and Tomás has built it specifically around fruit acidity, which sounds like nonsense and turns out not to be.