The people
Four of the twenty-two
Twenty-two people work here across the kitchen, the floor and the office. These four will probably be the ones you deal with, and one of them will almost certainly come and talk to you at some point during the evening.

Head chef
Nell Prideaux
Cooked in Copenhagen and San Sebastián and came home because she missed the rain and the brassicas. She writes the menu at six in the morning with the delivery notes in front of her, which is why it is never quite the same twice.

Sommelier
Tomás Feher
Buys from growers who farm the way our growers farm. He will happily sell you something expensive, but he would rather find you the twenty-eight pound bottle that makes the whole table stop talking.

General manager
Ayo Bankole
Runs the room and remembers everything: where you sat, what you sent back, the fact that it was your father’s birthday. Fourteen years in dining rooms and still the first one in on a Saturday.

Pastry
Sefi Adeyemi
Trained in bread before sugar, which shows. Her puddings are built on fruit the kitchen would otherwise have lost, and the ice creams are churned to order for eight people at a time.