The people

Four of the twenty-two

Twenty-two people work here across the kitchen, the floor and the office. These four will probably be the ones you deal with, and one of them will almost certainly come and talk to you at some point during the evening.

Nell Prideaux, head chef, at the pass

Head chef

Nell Prideaux

Cooked in Copenhagen and San Sebastián and came home because she missed the rain and the brassicas. She writes the menu at six in the morning with the delivery notes in front of her, which is why it is never quite the same twice.

Tomás Feher, sommelier, choosing a bottle from the wine wall

Sommelier

Tomás Feher

Buys from growers who farm the way our growers farm. He will happily sell you something expensive, but he would rather find you the twenty-eight pound bottle that makes the whole table stop talking.

Ayo Bankole, general manager, laying a table before service

General manager

Ayo Bankole

Runs the room and remembers everything: where you sat, what you sent back, the fact that it was your father’s birthday. Fourteen years in dining rooms and still the first one in on a Saturday.

Sefi Adeyemi, pastry, with trays of shaped dough

Pastry

Sefi Adeyemi

Trained in bread before sugar, which shows. Her puddings are built on fruit the kitchen would otherwise have lost, and the ice creams are churned to order for eight people at a time.

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