Four lists, and all of them move

À la carte. The list changes when the growers tell us it has to, which is more often than we would like and exactly as often as it should.

Three courses, written the morning it is served. Whatever came in at six is on it by twelve.

Nine courses and a walk through the week’s best box. Everyone eats at the same time, at the same table, which is the point.

Snacks and sherry at eight stools facing the pass. No booking, no phones, no fuss.