Stonebeck: one herd, four cheeses

Stonebeck make one cheese from the milk of one small herd of Northern Dairy Shorthorns. Four wheels made in different months taste noticeably unlike each other, and this is an hour spent finding out exactly how unlike.

Tasted in order, in daylight, with bread and nothing else in the way. Somebody from the dairy will be here to explain what the cows were eating each time. Thirty-five pounds, six places, half six until eight.